A Loggia Turned Café: The Origins of a Florentine Landmark
At the corner of Via delle Oche and Via dei Calzaiuoli, there once stood a loggia, still recognizable today by the archways of the surrounding shops. This loggia belonged to the Adimari family, part of the influential Guelf faction.
In Renaissance Florence, owning such a structure was a symbol of status, serving as a venue for weddings, celebrations, and receptions. However, this particular loggia earned the nickname “La Neghittosa” (from the Latin neglectus, meaning lazy or idle) because it became a gathering place for loafers and idlers.
Over time, the loggia was converted into a tavern and eventually absorbed into surrounding buildings.
The Birth of a Sweet Tradition: Gilli’s Swiss Origins
In 1733, the Swiss Gilli family opened “La Bottega dei Pani Dolci” on Via Calzaiuoli, specializing in pastries, sweets, and confections. The shop quickly became a favorite among Florentine locals, leading Andrea Gilli to open an even more luxurious patisserie and confectionery shop in 1893.
This new establishment, named “Maison Gilli,” was located at the ground floor of a building in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (now Piazza della Repubblica), on the corner of Via degli Speziali, directly across from the famous Caffè-Concerto Trianon (now home to Rinascente).
After Luigi Gilli’s passing, his eldest son sold the business to the Frizzoni family, also of Swiss origin. Despite the continued sale of sweets and chocolates at the original Via Calzaiuoli shop, the Gilli café at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele became the preferred meeting place for Florence’s upper and middle classes.
A New Chapter: Gilli During the 20th Century
In 1917, during World War I, Settimo Frizzoni relocated the café next to another Florentine landmark, Caffè Paszkowski. After undergoing modernization, Gilli was redesigned with two main halls—one dedicated to pastry-making and the other a tea room, along with an outdoor seating area.
During the early 20th century, Caffè Gilli became a hub for intellectuals, artists, and writers, hosting Futurist artists such as Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, Umberto Boccioni, Carlo Carrà, and others.
An Icon of Belle Époque Elegance
To this day, Caffè Gilli retains its Belle Époque charm, making it one of Florence’s last historic cafés. Inside, visitors can admire:
- The grand wooden counter, crafted by Gino Coppedè’s workshop
- Murano chandeliers, which illuminate the space with an old-world glow
- Stained glass panels and the café’s original clock, still functioning
- Stucco-framed ceiling paintings, featuring historical figures such as Pauline Bonaparte and Madame Récamier, painted in 1906 by Ezio Giovannozzi
Even after World War II, Caffè Gilli remained a popular meeting spot for young Florentines and the first wave of international tourists discovering the city.
The Famous “American Girl in Italy” Photo
Caffè Gilli also appears in one of the most iconic photographs of the 20th century—“American Girl in Italy (1951)” by Ruth Orkin. The image captures a young woman walking past Gilli, drawing the attention of a group of men gathered at the corner of Via Roma.
Gilli Today: A Piece of Florence’s History
In 1974, the Marchetti family purchased the Via Calzaiuoli café, later transforming it into a self-service snack bar before it was eventually acquired by Victoria’s Secret.
Thankfully, Caffè Gilli at Piazza della Repubblica remains intact, preserving its historic elegance and tradition. As Florence’s oldest café, we can only hope it continues to thrive for generations to come.
