Introduction
In the heart of Florence’s Oltrarno district, just a few steps from the lively Passera square and the award-winning Gelateria della Passera, lies a lesser-known corner of the city filled with stories, mysteries, and centuries of transformation. This article—Hidden Oltrarno Legends—guides you through one of the most intriguing micro-neighborhoods on the other side of the Arno.
Hidden Oltrarno Legends
1. Beyond Passera Square: A Different Story
Although today the nearby Passera area is famous for one of the best gelaterie in Florence, the true focus here lies elsewhere. Moving away from the sweet aroma of artisan gelato, we enter a quieter, more enigmatic network of streets where Florence’s past resurfaces with unexpected clarity. And so, Hidden Oltrarno Legends emerges once again as the lens through which we uncover forgotten tales.
Hidden Oltrarno Legends
2. Between Via dello Sprone and Via de’ Vellutini
Transition: To begin with…
Between Via dello Sprone and Via de’ Vellutini lies a small fragment of Florence with one of the city’s most fascinating names: via del Canto a’ Quattro Pagoni.
A name that appears to evoke feathers, medieval heraldry, and mysterious symbols, yet it is rooted in very real stories of families, conflicts, and everyday life in Renaissance Florence.
Hidden Oltrarno Legends
3. The Pavoni Family: From Civic Life to Tragedy
Transition: Historically speaking…
The name “Pagoni” traces back to the Pavoni, an old Oltrarno family. In the second half of the 14th century, one of its members took part in a squittinatura—the civic lottery system used by the Florentine Republic to assign public offices. This confirms that the family was integrated into the city’s political life.
Transition: However…
A dramatic episode marked their legacy: Jacopo Pavoni, who died in 1529 during the Siege of Florence at Porta San Pier Gattolino. His death tied the family name—and the street itself—to the struggle for Florentine freedom.
The term “pagoni” may come from an arme parlante, a heraldic emblem that visually played on the family name. Perhaps a peacock carved or painted on their homes. Not surprisingly, nearby there still exists Via del Pavone, reinforcing the area’s historical connection to the Pavoni lineage.
Hidden Oltrarno Legends
4. From Noble Roots to a Notorious Reputation
Transition: Over time…
With the arrival of the Medici Grand Dukes, the character of the neighborhood changed dramatically. In the Grand Ducal era, the area known as “al Pagone” became the site of one of Florence’s state-regulated brothels, overseen by the Magistrato dell’Onestà.
Over time, the district fell into disrepute, animated by brothels, intermediaries, and a nightlife as vibrant as it was unruly. The Signori Otto, the magistrates responsible for public order, documented repeated episodes of disorder in the area. The inclusion of “quattro” in the street’s name may have been a later addition, intended to set it apart from other Pavoni-related sites.
5. A Jewish Presence and Economic Tensions
Transition: Interestingly…
The name of the street appears in a 1488 document concerning a monetary fine imposed on Jewish lenders who worked with Florentine banking houses. This detail suggests that the area served as a crossroads of economic tensions, ethnic diversity, and social interactions.
Nearby, the street now called Via dei Ramagliati was once known as Via dei Giudei (Street of the Jews)—a powerful reminder of the multicultural fabric of the Oltrarno throughout the centuries.
Learn More
Here are 4 external links that provide context, history, and additional insights:
- History of Florence’s Oltrarno District: https://www.visitflorence.com
Medici Florence and Grand Ducal Institutions: https://www.uffizi.it
Jewish History in Tuscany: https://museoebraico.it
Florence Urban Topography and Historical Streets: https://www.comune.fi.it
