The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, located in the heart of Florence, Italy, is one of the city’s oldest and most historically significant religious sites. Dating back to the eighth century, this church showcases a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles, having undergone several renovations throughout its long history. Situated at Vicolo di Santa Maria Maggiore 1, the church houses notable artworks, including frescoes by Bernardino Poccetti and a Nativity painting by Matteo Rosselli.
A Hidden Gem in Florence’s Historic District
Despite its central location in one of Florence’s most charming old districts, the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore is often overlooked by visitors. If you find yourself near Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, at the intersection with Via de’ Cerretani, take a moment to admire this church. Its modest facade conceals an imposing interior, but the real intrigue lies in its severed bell tower. Look up to spot a mysterious marble face, known as ‘La Berta,’ emerging from the ancient stones. The origin of this enigmatic visage has sparked numerous legends over the centuries.
The Legend of ‘La Berta’
Florentines have long been fascinated by ‘La Berta,’ a marble face on the church’s facade. According to legend, this face belongs to a woman who was cursed by Cecco d’Ascoli, a scientist and humanist burned at the stake for heresy in 1327. As Cecco was led past the church, he begged for water, only to be denied by a woman (or possibly a priest) who believed giving him water would save him from the flames. In retaliation, Cecco cursed her, and her face was immortalized in stone.
Another version of the story suggests ‘La Berta’ was a greengrocer who donated a bell to the church, and her face was carved in gratitude. While this tale is less magical, it adds a layer of local folklore to the church’s history.
Architectural and Artistic Highlights
The church’s interior, redesigned in the early 17th century by Gherardo Silvani, features a nave and two aisles, ogival arches, and groin vaults. Among the significant artworks are Bernardino Poccetti’s frescoes depicting the Histories of St. Zenobius, Matteo Rosselli’s Nativity, and a polychromed stucco relief panel, the Madonna del Carmelo, which recent restoration suggests dates back to the 12th century.
The left transept chapel houses the grave of Brunetto Latini, discovered in 1751, and a sarcophagus attributed to Tino di Camaino. Additionally, the church once contained the Carnesecchi Triptych by Masolino da Panicale and Masaccio, and works by Botticelli, including the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian and the Lamentation over the Dead Christ with Saints.
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